At 10:24 AM 7/14/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Has anybody tried leaving the bats in and using alligator clips?
>Martin
>
>----------
>> From: Latham@aol.com
>> To: jacque@linux2.vdot.net; mpadams@pacifier.com
>> Cc: ogo@lifelike.com
>> Subject: Ogo Power Supply
>> Date: Sunday, July 13, 1997 10:04 PM
>>
>Anyone interested....
>
>I've gotten a few requests and noticed a couple of postings to the group
>about the power supply. Since I don't know if there is a web site with
>this
>info....
>
>Here is the original posting I got from Jeff Hinman ....
>I included Jeff's address, but I don't know if its still valid.
>
>I added some notes at the end about my experiences.
>
>Oh yea, Jacqueline, yes, you do have to cut and splice wires. But I'm no
>electrician and I managed it.
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
>-----------------------------------
>>Subj: AC Adaptor
>>Date: 96-07-11 13:45:48 EDT
>>From: ust941@edcca4.bgl.ca.boeing.com (Jeff Hinman)
>>Sender: owner-ogo@lifelike.com
>>To: ogo@lifelike.com
>
>For those interested, here is the description of my AC adaptor for my Ogo.
>
>Please realize that this is NOT the ultimate solution, which would be a
>plug
>in
>the Ogo case. This adaptor takes the physical place of the batteries when
>in
>
>use, and can easily be popped out and batteries replaced.
>
>Items needed:
>
>1 - AC to DC converter
> 120VAC to 3VDC, 300 mA minimum (mine is 650 mA)
> These are available at Radio Shack for about $9-$15 (depending on mA)
>
>1 - 0.5 inch diameter wood dowel
> This can be found at your local hobby store, ~$1.30
> Cut to a length of 95 mm (This is maximum, slightly less is OK)
>
>2 - input wires
> preferably insulated stranded wire (not solid)
> cut to 12 inches length each, strip the insulation off the ends
>
>2 - metal wood screws (~3/32 inch diameter shanks)
> 1 round head, 1/2 inch long, 1/4 inch diameter head (NEG pole)
> 1 countersink flat head, 1/2 inch long, 3/16 inch max dia head (POS
> pole)
>
>1 - Connector
> Female plug to go from AC/DC converter male plug to input wires
> Get to match the AC/DC converter you have
> DO NOT get a closed circuit type as this will short the Ogo terminals
> upon disconnect of the AC/DC connector plug
> Available at Radio Shack
>
>Electricians tape
>
>Voltmeter (to check polarity and voltage)
>
>Assembly Instructions:
>
>1) Center drill a hole into each end of the dowel, slightly less than the
>diameter of the screws.
>
>2) At the midpoint of the dowel (47.5 mm away from either end), drill one
>hole
>through the dowel large enough for both wires to fit through.
>
>3) Cut or carve a lengthwise channel from each end of the dowel to the
>center
>
>hole (I used a Dremel power tool) to provide a recess for each wire in the
>dowel.
>
>4) Screw almost all the way in both screws in the previously drilled ends,
>leaving enough room to wrap wire around.
>
>4) Pull both wires through the center hole, place each wire into its own
>channel, and wrap the stripped wire end around the screw beneath each screw
>
>head.
>
>5) Tighten the screws. NOTE: the countersink screw head MUST protrude from
>the
>end of the dowel at least 1/16 inches. If it doesn't, it will not contact
>the
>pickup on the OmniGo.
>
>6) wrap electricians tape around the dowel over the wire in the dowel
>groove
>to
>keep it in place.
>
>7) Twist the remaining wire together except for the ends (helps keep the
>wire
>
>together).
>
>8) Twist or solder (recommended) leads onto the female connector. Wrap
>with
>electricians tape, separating the bare wire leads to prevent contact.
>
>9) To check polarity and voltage, plug the AC/DC adaptor into the female
>plug,
>plug in the adaptor to 120VAC, and test with the voltmeter across the
>screws
>BEFORE placing in the Ogo. The flathead countersunk screw is the positive
>end
>(mark with a pen on the dowel) and the roundhead screw is the negative end
>(it
>will sit against the spring in the Ogo).
>
>Once you feel confident with the set up, place in the Ogo and work away.
>My
>setup measured 3.21 Volts (ran great). Another adaptor I tested produced 4
>
>volts on the 3 volt switch setting. The Ogo ran fine, but I wouldn't
>recommend
>using the Ogo at this higher voltage.
>
>DISCLAIMER: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
>
>Feel Free to email me personally if you have questions
>
>Jeff Hinman
>ust941@edcca4.bgl.ca.boeing.com
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
>------------------------------------
>Now for my notes:
>
>1) Backup your Ogo FIRST.
>
>2) I suggest the 850 mA Radio Shack converter. It has better power
>stability
> and if you're using several accessories or printing, you'll need the
>power.
>
>3) Precise measurement is necessary!
>
>4) I used a standard automotive trailer light plug set. It was much easier
>to
> work with when soldering. I tried to solder to a standard converter
>female
> adapter plug, but I guess I'm all thumbs :-(
> I replaced the standard plug on the converter and used the mated plug
>on
> the connector wires to the battery replacer (dowel)
>
>5) DOUBLE or triple check that the polarity is correct.
>
>6) CHECK the voltage just before you plug it in. The switch on the power
>supply
> can slip during handling and give your Ogo 6 or 9 volts. If you give
>it
>six volts
> the sceen will turn all black when you put the dowel in place. Don't
>ask me
> how I know......Trust me......its no fun 8-()
>
>Good luck and remember to check your work carefully.
>
>Ken
>Latham@aol.com
>
>
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